Sunday, January 31, 2021

New Elders and Gondola Ride -- week 51


New Elders in our Durban MTC


Sue made this sign this week.  In the ''old days'' before COVID, all missionaries spent at least three weeks in one of the Missionary Training Centers someplace in the world -- there are 14.  Those learning a foreign language would stay another five to eight weeks for intensive language study.  Those coming to Durban would generally go to the Johannesburg MTC before joining us in Durban.  But, for the last ten months, all MTCs have been closed.  Missionaries in the USA and other developed countries do their MTC online from their homes.  But many African missionaries do not have Internet at home, so now we provide the MTC training remotely from our office.  They come to the Mission, but spend those three weeks in our Conference room from 10AM to 5PM every day online with Johannesburg MTC teachers.

How many new Elders are we getting?  President Lines says he knows the count only when they show up at the airport.  In the ''old days" we knew two to three months in advance.  Four Elders arrive on Monday this week.  They are all South African.  We were also "supposed" to get nine more -- two from Sierra Leone, two from Uganda, four from Zambia and four from the US.  Those from Sierra Leone and Uganda had their visas denied.  South Africa is afraid they will come and not go home because their countries are in upheaval.  From the US, the visa applications are just taking forever -- none issued that we know of since last March (2020)!  The Zambian Elder started his MTC in the Lusaka Zambia Mission, but his visa came through on Thursday, so he is flying to us on Monday, along with one other Zambian Elder who has been serving there in his home country since May waiting for his visa.  It looks like the logjam may be finally breaking up!


When the new Elders arrive, we give them pizza lunch:  They've been on airplanes all morning.  Then we spend a couple of hours in orientation.  Sue talks to them about medical insurance and forms.  She collects their passports and/or ID cards to make copies and gets them certified at the Post Office.  She shows them the baptismal record form and talks to them about keeping their apartments clean.  She gives them fancy water bottles with built-in filters, plus individual thermometers.


Then she hands them over to Ken.  He gives them their Missionary Support Fund ATM card and explains how it works.  All missionaries and/or their families and/or their congregation pay into a world-wide missionary support fund.  Because a mission in Africa or South America costs a lot less than a mission in Tokyo or London or New York, the amount contributed is the same anywhere ($400 USD), but those coming from poor countries are often subsidized if needed.  Then every missionary in one mission receives the same amount on his/her MSF card each month.  In Durban it's about $150/month.  That pays for food, transportation, and other personal necessities.  The mission provides apartments and utilities and phones.

President Lines was thrilled at this batch of new Elders because all four of them have a driver's license!  We've mentioned before that when the foreign Elders went home last March/April for awhile the mission was left with forty vehicles and only five drivers.  As a result dozens of vehocles have sat in remote, inaccessible locations, and batteries have gone irretrievably flat and have all had to be replaced.


The next part of Ken's orientation is to take them for their driving test.  This was pretty easy this week because four South African drivers are all used to driving on the left side of the road.  When Elders come from Europe or USA or Brazil it is a challenge to keep left.  He gave them a tough test: driving a big Ford Ranger.

After Ken is finished, the Elders spend some time with the Assistants to the President.  These are young Elders with particular leadership responsibilities.  They explain the missionary purpose, the daily and weekly schedule, use of phones, etc.

Lastly, each new Elder has an in-depth interview with President Lines.  When those interviews are over, the President and the two Assistants meet and decide who will be companions with whom.  The missionaries always go in sets of two (or sometimes three).  They are responsible for the health and welfare of their companions and are almost never apart.

Our new Elders are all settled into their learning, and we enjoy having them in the office -- it's not so quiet.  When they have breaks they come in and say hi to us.  They are four nice young men who are unselfishly giving up two years in the prime of their young lives to come to a new city and teach people about Jesus Christ and his restored church.  Two are Black, two are White.  There was a time in South Africa where that couldn't have happened.  But now they are all great friends working together for a common good, and being part of a new generation that can know and value each other across races.


Critters in our Lives

This week's monkey story:  Sue spent a couple of days shredding old papers and filling garbage bags with chits.  When Ken hauled the trash to the barrels in the carport under the building, he surprised a troop of native vervet monkeys feasting on the remains of the new missionaries' pizza lunch they had pulled from the barrel and spread all over the floor.  So he shooed them off so he could clean up the mess.  All fled, except one big bull monkey.  He just sat back about ten feet away and stared angrily while Ken picked up the trash, stuffed the barrels with bags of clippings and put brick weights on the barrel lids. The little big guy was not happy, but he finally slunk off down into the thick jungle in the gulch below our office. 

But monkeys got their revenge.  Sunday afternoon on our walk, we discovered that the neighborhood monkey troop had raided the trash barrels at our apartment building and had pulled out our own trash bag and spread it all over the grounds. We picked it all back up.


We know we have a gecko living in our flat, but we haven't managed to get a picture of him. We glimpse him in the back of the kitchen cupboards, and one time running along the wall and hiding behind a picture.  But this week Ken did get a photo of a gecko just outside our front door.  They are considered good luck, so not to be bothered.  They eat spider and cockroach eggs.  Yea!!


Then Saturday night Ken walked into the kitchen and saw a very large cockroach licking the lid of the butter dish.  Ken took a photo while Sue grabbed a small plastic container to try to confine it.  But it was so fast!  It hid under the toaster, then under the pile of masks, then back the other way and went under the microwave.  Then we saw it go under the fridge, so there was no moving that.  Ken found the can of bug spray and shot a generous dose under the fridge.  The bug ran out and started across the living room rug!  

That was its mistake.  Out in the open Ken gave it a good dose of bug killer and Sue covered it with the container, and we let it die.  Then Ken did the research.  It's a smokybrown African cockroach.  Ken took this photo with a pen so you can see how big it was!







Electrical Connectors



Ken, the electrical engineer, likes all the types of plugs here.  It's 240 Volt AC, like in Europe, but the standard plug is huge and three-pronged. 


And then there are all kinds of adapters.  Some for USA-type plugs, and most for the smaller round or oval two-prong plugs with optional ground we used in Europe.  Sue brought her German blow-dryer that also worked in Russia, and it works fine here, too. 





Our Back Yard
As long as we've been here, we had never been down to our backyard.  It's beautiful, and we love looking at it out our third floor windows.  We came home one day and needed to get our keys from the Assistants.  They were out back making a video for the Durban Mission Facebook page, so we wandered down there.  


Ken also took a photo of one of the small waterfalls that drain the little jungle canyon.  It was pretty small then.  A couple of days this week we've had huge rainstorms and then there is quite a spill over this little hill.









Durban Point Waterfront Canal

Friday afternoon Sue was looking up ideas for our Saturday touristy outing.  President Lines said that if we figured out something, they would love to come along.  So all four of us went on a gondola ride on the Durban Point Waterfront Canal.  It's a beautiful park area next to the beach and the uShaka Marine Aquarium.  The gondolas have small electric trolling motors, so the driver doesn't have to pole all that way, and the ride is quiet.




The canal is lined with beautiful new buildings that have businesses on the ground floor and apartments above.  










Sister Lines was smart and wore a big hat.  President Lines ended up with a very pink face from the sun.


There is one space that is fenced off and baby hammerhead sharks live there!  After the gondola ride, we walked over to see more closely.  The Lines got there first and saw one.  By the time we walked up after them it had hidden away.  

The people of South Africa are quite spiritual and interested in religion.  One of the men working at the gondola stand asked us about being missionaries.  President Lines talked to him a bit about the Church, and gave him a card with his personal phone number.  He invited the man to call him and we'd make arrangements for him to visit with the young missionaries.  He was glad to have that introduction.

La Rosa Mexican Restaurant

We had wanted to go back to the 415 Mexican restaurant (named for San Francisco phone area code) but it has permanently closed due to COVID.  Sue found another Mexican restaurant about 5 km (3.4 miles) up the beach from downtown Durban.  President Lines suggested we go there for lunch one day and find out if it was an OK neighborhood to visit for dinner.  (Some places are not.)  It was beautiful, delicious, and quite safe.  It's is part of Sun Coast Hotel/Casino/Mall complex.  You have to go through a security guard to get into the parking lot, and you do not have to go through the casino to get to the restaurants.  Perfect!


And the food was great!  We shared a large nachos platter.  The guacamole was just right.  Ken and Sue and Sister Lines had different kinds of burritos, served wet -- with sauce and cheese on top.  President Lines had two enchiladas with rice and beans.  We all declared it wonderful and will definitely come back.  We sat outside on the deck with an ocean breeze blowing around, so felt COVID-safe, too.  


However, Sue sat with her back to the sun, and ended up really, really pink.  Next week she will be appeeling!





The restaurant is just across the road from the big soccer stadium built for World Cup in 2010.  When COVID is over and games start again, it is on our list to go to a soccer game in this stadium. 



We came home after lunch and Sue cooked the sourdough English muffins she had started in the morning.  We are still doing exclusively sourdough and haven't bought any bread since May!  They were supposed to be for BLTs for dinner.  But our burritos were so huge that we only ate half for lunch and ate the other half for dinner.  The BLTs will wait for another day.


Puzzle Update:  The lion's mane is done, and the horns of the rhino.  But now Sue is a bit stuck.  The rhino body and elephant body are going to take a long time.  




COVID and Us
People are asking us about COVID here, especially with all the news about the South African variation.  We are very careful -- Sue called La Rosa before we went to make sure they had an outdoor area.  Everyone wears masks everywhere.
But first, for some perspective.  South Africa has about 60 million people.  California has about 40 million.  Why are the statistics in South Africa so much better than in California?  Some might be underreporting?  But not as much as the differences in cases as reported by Johns Hopkins and New York Times on 31 January 2021.



The scale on the RSA graph starts at 22 January 2020 -- over a year ago.  It has fewer than half the cases of California.  The difference has been that the South African government has taken the disease seriously, and the citizens have accepted the restrictions as necessary.

Sunday, January 24, 2021

Durban Botanic Gardens -- week 50

This week was busy around the office, but otherwise mostly quiet.  

No crazy monkey stories this week, but when we went for our daily walk today there was a whole troop of monkeys just sitting along the side of the road.  The babies are so cute!  They are not afraid of us if we are just walking on the sidewalk.  If we head towards them, then they scatter.  The babies go tummy-to-tummy with the moms, arms and legs wrapped around tight, and the moms run and climb everywhere.  I guess it doesn't feel much different than being pregnant, except the baby is on the outside instead of inside.


And the weekly puzzle report:  Major progress!  The cheetah is done. (That's for our granddaughter Myra.)  And the lion's face.  Now the easy parts are finished.  The rest will go more slowly, for sure.  The elephant-colored pieces are all piled on a tray out of the photo range.  Brown is lion.  Purple and black are rhino and wildebeest face.


Our ward in Palo Alto has a tradition of getting the past Relief Society Presidents (the women's service organization) together for lunch whenever there is a new one.  I missed the last lunch about three years ago because I was in Russia.  I would have missed this one, too, but it was done on Zoom, so we could all be there.  It is a wonderful group of women, and I am honored to be one of them.  We just had a good visit, gave our thanks to Julia Jacobsen for her good service the last few years, and welcomed Jenni Wiener into her new role.

L-R, top to bottom:  Sue Allen, Monajo Ellsworth, Megan Johnston, Miriam deSchweinitz, Andrea Miner (in Cameroon, Africa), Marguerite Hancock, Donna Pendleton, Julia Jacobsen, Leanne Harrison Giles, Deanne Welch, Jennifer Giles Wiener, Nanci Thomander, Catherine Ballantyne.  Still living, but not there:  Nettie Wise (age 96!), Marlene Meshinski, Sue Gong.  Deceased:  Deanne Harrison (mother to Leanne Giles, grandmother to Jenni Wiener!), Lorna Holdaway, Vera Kuehn.  (Did I forget anyone?)  Our ward has been going since 1956.

Sue's big project this week was, finally, the keys!  Last March when we all got on the bus at 4:30 a.m. for the ride to the airport for the evacuation flight, someone had the good sense to collect everyone's keys -- house keys, car keys, church keys. 



However, no one thought to label them in the process.  The car keys almost all have a tag with the car license number on it.  The church keys have a serial number stamped into them. But the house keys are a whole other problem... .  Some of them were in bags labeled by area.  Some of them did have tags with apartment names.  Some of them have tags that say "back gate," or "laundry room," or some such useless wording.  Since we got back to Durban, all these keys have been in plastic bins in a corner of the office.  It was time to do something about them.  The push came because we are closing seven more apartments and have to give the keys back!  

Sue wrote the name of each of the seven Zones on a large piece of paper, and one labeled "Don't Know."  She then put them all out on the large conference room table and started figuring what keys we have, what are missing, and what are totally unlabeled.  A lot of them got straightened out!  The ones with a Church key on the ring could at least be narrowed down to a particular city.  More were labeled than originally thought.  She found the ones for the apartments to be closed, except for one.  Not bad!

We have 18 occupied apartments and 30 that have been empty since last April.  We keep hoping that "next month" we will get a big group of missionaries back, so we keep paying rent and utilities.  But it's not happening.  President Lines was hoping for 30 to 40 in December.  We got 9.  Then we were hoping for 40+ in January.  Nope -- we could have had 13 come next week -- but it is down to four.  They are all South African.  The four from the U.S. do not have visas yet.  Two from Sierra Leone have not heard about their visas -- and they applied months ago.  Two from Uganda were denied this week by South Africa.  One from Zambia hasn't heard yet, but will most likely come through in the next few weeks.  And some from the U.S. who were evacuated out with us were hoping to come back, but a big group now has less than six months left, so they will stay permanently assigned where they are in the U.S.  Boo Hoo!  President Lines says he'll believe someone is really coming when they are in the airport in Durban with luggage in hand.  

Two of the apartments we are closing are in the remote country of Lesotho, where there are over 1,000 Church members, but the borders are totally closed.  The landlord has spare keys, thank goodness!  We will hire someone in the two towns of Maseru and Maputsoe to remove our belongings and store them in another apartment that we have in the same city until we can have missionaries come back.  We have no missionaries in Lesotho at all right now, but Lesotho has seen three converts baptized so far this month, having been taught by missionaries here in Durban by long-distance/international telephone. The Lord provides!

Ken's excitement this week was having a car towed.  President Lines decided we needed to rotate the cars we drive so not so many are just sitting.  The Assistants (two young Elders) to the President usually drive a pick-up truck (bakkie in South African English), but they took one of the Renault Dusters to run an errand.  They had to jump-start it because the battery had gone bad. 


Then the transmission started slipping.  The vehicle is still under warranty, though the battery is not.  But Ken wanted it checked.  Ken was worried about driving it to the dealership in Pinetown, up the hills from us.  He didn't want anyone stuck with a bad transmission on the freeway from the office to there, so he had it towed.  They didn't find anything wrong except a bad battery, so he had them do the regular maintenance, due in February, while it was there.  Ken had thought it was just low on transmission fluid, although the problem could have been electronic failure due to the bad battery.  Ken and the Elders picked up the vehicle and then caravaned it to a little shop way back in downtown Durban to buy a battery at half the price the dealer would have charged.  It was quite an adventure in evening commute traffic.

Friday night we went out to dinner with President and Sister Lines, just for fun.  The plan was to take them to 415 Mexican -- named for the San Francisco phone Area Code!  We went there last March and it was good food.  But, alas, the website says it is permanently closed due to COVID.  So sad!  So instead the Lines took us to a Thai/sushi restaurant they like in Berea called Green Mango.



They have patio seating, so it's more COVID safe, and the food was great.  We ordered California rolls, of course.  Ken had teriyaki chicken.  Sue had fried rice with chicken.  Yummy!

Saturday night as we were eating dinner, the Assistants, who live upstairs, said their washer was stuck.  It wouldn't spin or drain, and the door was locked.  It was full of water.  It's a front-loader.  We finished eating and then went up to investigate.  Sue Googled the problem, and it seemed the pump was stuck.  Google showed how to drain the water -- but it's hard to do!  The drain hole is on the bottom right corner in the photo. 



There isn't much room to get a pan under that low-down drain.  We used a flat baking pan and some towels and managed to only flood the floor a little bit.  Once the water was out the door would open and Elder Chola could get his clothes out.  Inside the drain, blocking the filter to the pump, was found a piece of white dress shirt cuff about 1" wide and 6" long.  No idea how it got there, but that was the culprit.



Saturday we decided it was time to go back to our habit of doing something fun and touristy each "P-Day."  It's our chance to get to know the country and see the sights.  Sue's first choice, of course, is to go to the beach, but all the beaches around Durban are closed due to COVID restrictions.  But, Durban Botanic Gardens, an oasis in the midst of the city, are open.  We had to wait about five minutes outside the gate in our car to get in because the gardens are limited to 100 people at a time.  The place is huge, so it is not at all crowded!


The gardens were founded in 1849 as an experiment by colonists to see what kinds of plants would grow in South Africa that could be used commercially.  Trees were brought in from all over the world.  Cinnamon from Sri Lanka, bamboo from China, eucalyptus from Australia, bananas from South America, etc.


We took a golf cart tour with a wonderful guide.  He's fourth generation South African, but of East Indian royal heritage.  He said he's about the last tour guide left in Durban because most tourist sites are shut down, and he's very happy to still have a job.





Around the park are small garden areas with fountains and flowers.








The entrance area has a memorial fountain surrounded by impatience, periwinkle and petunias.  The climate here is very similar to California, so we saw lots of plants that we grow at home.  


This is the view from the other end of the gardens back down to the fountain, with Durban city skyline in the background.  The U.S. Consulate for Durban is in that  neighborhood.





This is a favorite tree.  It is a gum tree (eucalyptus) and as the bark dies it turns red, then peels off to be bright green inside.  We were there when it was in the shade, so we found another photo that really shows the colors.  










Here is a "walking tree," a banyan that drops roots from the branches that hit the ground and then start new trees that are attached.  The botanical gardens has to go around regularly and cut off the hanging roots or the tree will spread out and take over a huge area.  The world's largest such tree is over two miles in diameter.




There is a large pond in the gardens with five-foot tall lotus flowers growing in part of it.  Beautiful southern red bishop birds live among the lotus plants and flit around.  See Ken's video below.

(Play it several times to see the bird flit across.)


                                                        


This cycad tree is hundreds of years old and the last original male of its species.  It has 24-hour video surveillance and embedded locator chips in case anyone tries to steal from it.  The bark is more valuable than platinum.  In Zulu culture cycads are considered good luck.  There are three smaller clones from it in the garden, but there are no females left.


There are lots of plants with beautiful flowers and leaves. We saw Bird of Paradise like we have at home, too. 







This one is like a poinsettia.  All those coral/pink colors are leaves.  It has little tiny yellow flowers, so it adapted the colorful leaves to attract bees.




Here are the "kissing trees," two trees that used to be separate, but rubbed together until the branches joined and now they are together forever -- just like us!







Banana trees grow all over, but the monkeys eat the bananas before they can be harvested by people.










This one is ideal for kids to climb!












This is the trunk of a tree that fell over.  An artist has carved it into sea animals that live around Durban -- a whale, porpoise, seagull, turtle, and lots of little sardines.  Our guide told us there is a huge sardine run near Durban in August.  Many poor people catch them and sell them on street corners.



This was a favorite, the cannonball tree.  You can see why.  Those balls are the fruit of the tree.  Someone has tried to make beer from them, but it evidently doesn't taste too good, so it's not popular. 





However, the flowers are gorgeous, and smell good, too.



Thank you for joining us on our garden tour.  Till next week.

Two Golden Gates in One Week! Week 104

Hard to believe that was two years ago when we started this amazing adventure.  We arrived home in the afternoon, Saturday 5 February 2022. ...